2009 Heartland 100: It Really Blows in Kansas

All photos courtesy of Gary Henry

Another year at Heartland, my fourth visit, brought with it not so pleasant conditions as in the past. But having lived there during my formative years I know what to expect from Kansas weather: anything. The weather forecast looked gloomy at first, with some improvements as each forecast model package came in as the week leading up to the race drew close. First, it looked to be windy, cold, and rainy. Then it looked like it would be windy and cool, mostly sunny with the weather coming in during the night. It turned out to be a mixed blessing: no precip, but it was windy and very cool. The afternoon highs were in the low-40’s, but with the wind blowing from the north and west, it seemed to be in the low-30’s. At the pre-race briefing, the RD Randy Albrecht asked me for what seems to be my role for Heartland: the official weather forecast for the weekend. Friday was very pleasant, little wind, sunny skies, and fairly warm. I told everyone to “remember the weather for today, ‘cause that will be the only thing keeping you alive tomorrow.” Heartland was going to be my 25th 100 mile finish, and it looked like number 25 wasn’t going to be so easy.

I brought more cold weather running gear than usual, but also, just in case, some warm weather gear. Never used the latter. At the start, I decided to wear long running pants and keep them on all throughout the race. I also had 4 layers on my upper body at the start, my face buff, gloves, and a thin beanie for the head topped off with a baseball style running hat. I never took off the gloves. I added a wool hat at 50 miles and left the baseball hat. I added more layers later at night as it got colder, ending the race with 6 layers on. At least I was comfortable.



The course is a 50 mile out and back on backcountry farm roads in the Flint Hills Region of Kansas, also called the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. It is not uncommon to see livestock near the course, or on the course, at any time. Prairie chickens also rule the area. Cassoday isn’t called the Prairie Chicken Capitol of the World for nothing. During the day they are rare to see, but at night they incessantly fly up in front of you (since they like to roost on the ground) and ahead like the stupid fowl they are only to be startled again a few seconds later as you make your way along the road. This process can continue for quite some time. In earlier years they scared the shit out of me at night making lots of noise. This year, my mp3 player a ‘blazing it wasn’t as annoying.



At the start of the race, the weather was remarkably pleasant: calm winds, starry skies, a bit crisp (39 degrees). Soon, we were herded together like cattle for the start, and with the word “GO!” we were off into the darkness. The 50 milers started a few 100 yards ahead of us, but soon we all started merging together. I wanted to keep the pace reasonable and with little effort, as I knew the later part of the race is where it can get really gnarly, particularly if one goes out too hard at the start. The weather was also nice, so why spoil it? It took me about 1:29 to get to the first manned aid station, Battle Creek, at mile 8.2. As the weather was particularly pleasant, I knew it had to change. Coming into the aid station, the winds had picked up considerably, and the once clear skies were now filled with low clouds streaming in from the north. Yep, the good weather was over guys. Time to suck it up.





I spent little time at Battle Creek, and headed on out to the next aid station Lapland at mile 16.8. This part of the course is a serious set of ups and downs. It seems easier this way than coming back. Of course the crosswind didn’t make for an easy go of it either. Once I got to the unmanned aid station at 13 miles, it is a fairly easy downhill to Lapland. I rolled into Lapland in 3:11, with a leg time of 1:42. So far, I was 2 minutes ahead of my projected splits. It wouldn’t last.



Again, I spent minimal time here refilling bottles and grabbing a PB&J sandwich. From here to Teterville, the next aid station at 25 miles consists of some rolling hills but with a lot of meandering through the tall grass prairie, one of my favorite sections. Making the final turn towards Teterville took us right into the wind. It was tough to get any running in, but we all managed somehow. By now the 50 milers were returning and it looked like the tailwind behind them was making them happy. Got into Teterville in 4:49, a bit off my projected splits but not by much. The headwinds were starting to take a toll. So I sat down on the back of a pickup truck’s tailgate and rummaged through my drop bag for food and whatever suited my fancy. One of the aid station workers recognized me for the weather forecast at the pre-race briefing, and thanked me for the wind. I said “Happy to satisfy.” I was only here a few minutes and I decided to head on out for my least favorite section, here to Ridgeline Aid Station 11.5 miles distant. Best get it over with, I thought.

Made my way down the road for a mile, and then turned right up a rutty, dried up formally muddy unimproved road. It was here that Dan Brendan caught up with me, and we both made the most of the 2 mile climb up to the rolling roads that will take us to Texaco Hill Aid Station (mile 31) all the way to Ridgeline.



It was great running with Dan, at least to Texaco Hill. We both were taking it easy with the headwinds, and were mystified as other runners were running the hills AND bracing the headwinds. Whatever trips their triggers I thought. Dan and I made for conversation, which was great as it really passed the time quickly to Texaco Hill. Got to Texaco Hill in 6:18, about 24 minutes slower than predicted. The winds were taking a toll. Stacy Sheridan was here and greeted all the runners coming in and leaving. I ate a few PB&J sandwiches and sucked down some cokes and refilled my bottles before heading out. Dan spent little time here and was already gone.



As I was leaving, I saw Dan just ahead. I kept Dan in my sights all the way to Ridgeline, but never managed to catch up to him. At least this way, he was pulling me along when I needed the pulling. He would run, so I would run. He would walk, and so would I. This kept me focused on one of the worse sections (at least for me) and got me to Ridgeline in a little over an hour (7:26 running time). Rolled into the aid station tent and chatted it up with Dave Dinkel, who offered me his patented Prairie Power Pellets ™. I declined but promised to indulge myself on the way back. I had a drop bag here but didn’t need it this time around. I refilled my bottle, grabbed some food to eat and sucked down more coke. But then it hit me: I had to use the PortaPot ASAP. So I ran outta there and into the PP. It took me longer than I wanted, and some runners were cussing me up to hurry up. I finally was able to get out of there and apologized to the waiting runner for making her wait. All in all, I spent about 10 minutes here.



The next section is one of my favs: a very rolling terrain and generally downhill for the next 6 miles to Matfield Green, my next port of call at mile 42.5. It is usually in this section that I meet cows in the road or alongside. This year, there were none, in both directions. This section really seems to fly time wise, and I arrived at Matfield in 9:01. Part of this was due to running with Barb Elias and Nick Bassett, which provided some nice diverting conversation along the way. Right before the right turn onto the road that takes you to the aid station, the two front running males were heading out. I pulled in, refilled my bottles and had a wonderful sloppy Joe sandwich. Sucked down a few cokes, and headed back out.

A lot of people complain about this next section, which takes you up a longish hill to what seems like a faraway transmission tower, but I find it a nice change and allows one to walk for a bit. The problem is that tower never seems to get any closer and it is staring you right in the face the whole way. By the time you get up to the tower, you have 2.5 miles of mostly flat to downhill to the 50 mile turnaround. About a mile from the turnaround, the runners were greeted by Burma Shave-type signs; one I particularly liked said “This seemed like such a good idea a week ago”. I finally rolled in the 50 mile turnaround aid station in 10:40, which I was pretty happy with time wise. I decided to spend a bit of time here, as I needed to change shoes, hat, eat, drink and be otherwise merry. I picked up some batteries for my flashlight and mp3 player, sucked down an Ensure, restocked on electrolytes and was ready to go. Unfortunately, I spent about 20 minutes here. Time well spent.

On the way back, you get to see all your running friends, and most important of all, the cessation of wind in your face, now at my back. What a relief! I did a lot of jogging/running with walks mixed in for good measure. Got back to Matfield Green in 12:33. Spent very little time here except to eat and refill. I wanted to get out of here and on the road to Ridgeline before it got dark. I finally had to pull my light out about halfway. I saw Barb and Nick just ahead and used their lights to pull me along. I got into Ridgeline in 14:18, and it was getting colder. I decided I needed to add a layer here and change into a warmer wool hat. After spending about 5 minutes digging around my drop bag (and grabbing my better Gerber light) I headed next door for some hot chow. Dave was there serving up his beans and weenies and it really tasted great! I drank a couple cups of coke and figured it was time to head out.

Unfortunately, we now had to face a significant crosswind all the way to Teterville. It was along this section to Texaco Hill that the prairie chickens were having a little fun with me. All part of the Heartland Experience ™. It seemed like a slow slog to Texaco Hill, and I ended up walking more than jogging. It took me 1:47 to get to Texaco, or 15:55 for 69 miles. I spent some time here trying to warm up and eat more. After spending about 10 minutes here it was time to leave. I didn’t want to spend lots of time at the aid stations and taking some time here was not in my plan. The good thing about leaving here is that is mostly downhill and seems to go rather quickly. I managed to get into Teterville (mile 75) in 17:54. I did plan on spending some time here to regroup and warm up. Digging around in my drop bag I replenished my electrolytes and sucked down a couple of caffeine pills as I was starting to get a bit drowsy. I left here happy knowing the crosswinds were over and the wind at my back.

This year the segment between Teterville and Lapland went relatively quick than recent years. However, I was pretty dead when I rolled into Lapland in 20:49. Unfortunately I spent about 30 minutes here trying to wake up and get warm. Gary Henry and his pacer arrived, tried to talk with me but I was rather non-responsive. They left. It wasn’t long after that I decided to just get it done.

My next goal was to get to the Battle Creek Aid Station before sunrise. Last year I was hit with sunrise a few miles before Battle Creek and the hills spreading out before me made me want to cry. What I can’t see won’t hurt me, so I wanted to get there in the dark. Thankfully, I was able to do just that by mostly walking. I got there just after 6:08 in the morning (24:07 race time). I spent very little time here and left trying to make the most of the pre-sunrise darkness. By the time the sun was rising, I was over the hilly part. I also felt rejuvenated (amazing how the sun can do that) and started jogging, then running. I had some good tunes on the player and it really got me moving. I saw a couple of runners ahead and I made it my goal to try to catch them. Not long after, I rolled into the Mirage Aid Station run by Trail nerd Ben Holmes with his wonderful homebrew. I immediately asked for a brew, and chitchatted with Ben about some new trail shoes he would recommend. I traditionally have used Montrail Hardrocks, but have grown disappointed over the last few years with the changes they have made making them pretty much unusable for me. He offered a few suggestions as alternatives which I will look into, as the Hardrocks I currently have will soon be worn out and better left dead. The beer was very tasty (an IPA I believe) and I left somewhat perkier and rejuvenated than when I arrived. Isn’t that what aid stations should do?

I now only had 5 miles to go. But a long 5 miles, as you can see the water tower of Cassoday in the distance that seems so close, but is yet so far. I was still feeling good and running more than I was walking. I soon caught up with the runners ahead of me and it turned out it was Gary and his pacer who left me for dead at Lapland many hours ago. Gary was walking. I offered him encouraging words and made my way towards the finish line several miles away. Soon, I hit the pavement and made a right turn, with the finish line just ¾ mile ahead. I rolled into the finish line, cowbells a blazing, with a total time of 27:00:48! I had hoped for 26-27 hours, so I was very happy.

As usual for Heartland, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. I must have, as this was my fourth time there. The RDs, Randy and Jim Davis, put on a hell of a show. Well run, excellent aid stations, and a great pre- and post-race feed. I’ll definitely be back for another.